Oh, it's dirty all right. Down the steps and into the dark, dank den where sobriety goes to die. How it manages to retain more than an inkling of charm is one of the great unsolved mysteries of Montreal. Could it be Arts & Crafts night on Mondays? Or the wrinkled, local yokels slouched over the bar who were once cops and hookers? How about the wee, smoke-filled terrace out back? It's definitely... plus